{"id":5876,"date":"2023-01-17T23:40:00","date_gmt":"2023-01-17T22:40:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mrlandon.com\/tenaya\/?post_type=relatos&p=5876"},"modified":"2025-12-15T23:42:47","modified_gmt":"2025-12-15T22:42:47","slug":"interview-alex-megos-dicki-korb-training-for-climbing","status":"publish","type":"relatos","link":"https:\/\/mrlandon.com\/tenaya\/relatos\/interview-alex-megos-dicki-korb-training-for-climbing\/","title":{"rendered":"The Climbing Coach: Dicki Korb, with Alex Megos"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Alex Megos might be the\u00a0first person in the world to onsight 9a<\/a>\u00a0(5.14d), but the 27-year-old climber came on to the scene gradually. From his early days of climbing with socks in rock shoes, he was encouraged to play the long game by his coaches\u00a0Dicki Korb and Patrick Matros<\/a>. Megos slowly and diligently built up his base strength and focused on muscular balance, mobility, flexibility, and healthy motivation over pushing grades.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The hard work eventually paid off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Megos evolved as a climber<\/a>, he began to tick off the world\u2019s hardest routes with unprecedented speed. He flashed Pure Imagination <\/em>(8c+\/5.14c) at the Red River Gorge, hiked Era Vella <\/em>(9a\/5.14d) at Margalef on his second go, climbed Squamish\u2019s Dreamcatcher <\/em>(9a\/5.14d) in a day<\/a>, put down the Frankenjura\u2019s famous Action Directe <\/em>(9a\/5.14d) in two hours<\/a>, sent Siurana\u2019s La Rambla <\/em>(9a+\/5.15a) on his second attempt<\/a>, and C\u00e9\u00fcse\u2019s Biographie <\/em>(9a+\/5.15a) on his third<\/a>\u2014the list goes on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This year, despite a pandemic, he managed to complete his longest project to date. After approximately 60 days of effort, Megos made the first ascent of Bibliographie<\/em><\/a> at C\u00e9\u00fcse\u2014the second 9c (5.15d) in the world after Silence<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we see flashy news headlines about hard ascents, we don\u2019t often learn about the years on years of effort that led to the achievement. For our final segment in the Behind the Send<\/a> series, we are delving into Megos\u2019s evolution as a climber, his relationship with his coaches, and his personal training.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Join us for an Instagram Live session with Megos<\/a> and his long-time coach Dicki Korb<\/a> to learn all about how Megos trains and how you, too, can optimize your training for climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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