{"id":5925,"date":"2024-02-06T00:06:00","date_gmt":"2024-02-05T23:06:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mrlandon.com\/tenaya\/?post_type=relatos&p=5925"},"modified":"2025-12-16T00:11:40","modified_gmt":"2025-12-15T23:11:40","slug":"chris-sharma-alex-megos-climbing-sleeping-lion","status":"publish","type":"relatos","link":"https:\/\/mrlandon.com\/tenaya\/relatos\/chris-sharma-alex-megos-climbing-sleeping-lion\/","title":{"rendered":"The Lion\u2019s Den"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

In March of 2023, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Sleeping Lion<\/em><\/strong><\/a> at the iconic El Pati sector of Siurana\u2014a route that is bound to be a test-piece for generations to come. While he clipped the chains only last year, his vision for the route dates all the way back to 2006 when he climbed the neighboring classic La Rambla<\/em> (9a+), and its existence ultimately stems from his drive to find new lines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cFor me, the creative process of seeking something out, envisioning a line, and bringing that to life is a really important part of what inspires me in rock climbing,\u201d he says. If every climb bears the signature of its author, Sleeping Lion<\/em>\u2014with its crimpy and dynamic moves up a striking blue-and-white wave of rock, all leading to a high redpoint crux\u2014is no exception.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s no wonder, then, that Sleeping Lion <\/em>quickly caught the attention of other top climbers, including Felipe Camargo<\/strong><\/a>, Stefano Ghisolfi, and Jorge Diaz-Rullo. But it was Alex Megos<\/strong><\/a> who came away with the coveted second ascent, on January 5, after eight days of effort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is the story of Sleeping Lion<\/em>, as told by Chris Sharma and Alex Megos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Q&A with Chris Sharma:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

How did you discover Sleeping Lion<\/em> and what inspired you to climb it?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ever since I climbed La Rambla<\/em> [9a+]<\/strong><\/a> in 2006, I\u2019ve looked at that wall. Later, I think it was in 2008, I went back to climb Golpe de Estado<\/em> [9b] on the right side, which was one of my first 5.15b\u2019s, but I always remember looking at that blue wall in the middle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The thing about the wall, at the bottom, it\u2019s this very white rock that\u2019s very blank looking. It\u2019s really hard to see a way up there. It\u2019s the type of rock that you need to actually go in close to inspect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I always thought one day I\u2019d have to go up there and put some bolts in, and just get up close and see if I can find a pathway up through that section. It\u2019s the same itch that I get when I\u2019m hiking around looking for boulders or whatever it is, if I don\u2019t go up there and check that out, I\u2019m going to regret it so bad if someone comes 15 years later and finds a line there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cThat\u2019s really what I\u2019ve always been about, finding new lines. But you\u2019ve got to leave no stone unturned because that mega line could be right around the corner.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

You\u2019ve got to go that extra mile as a route developer. That\u2019s really what I\u2019ve always been about, finding new lines. But you\u2019ve got to leave no stone unturned because that mega line could be right around the corner. And because you didn\u2019t go look, you missed it, and it was sitting there your whole life. And that kind of haunts me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So I went up there. Right in the scoop area of the wall, where it has that wave feature, I went up a neighboring route about 40 feet to the right and put a line of bolts across that so I could lower down in multiple areas to scour the wall to see if I could find an entrance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I put in that time and I was able to find an entrance into it. That gave me the motivation to then go from the top and bolt the rest of the route. It was pretty cool how it all came together.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Sleeping Lion\u00a0at the iconic El Pati Sector of Siruana, Catalonia, Spain. The route moves through a blank-looking section of white rock before reaching the blue stripes above. Photo: Adri\u00e0 Mart\u00ednez.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the <\/strong>Sleeping Lion<\/em> film<\/strong><\/a>, you mentioned that between family and the gyms, you\u2019re more of an \u201cextreme weekend warrior\u201d now. What does a typical day or week of climbing look like for you?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Having kids and trying to balance all of that is not easy. During the weekends, I\u2019m all with my family. And during the weekdays, it\u2019s kind of my time to make my own schedule with regards to my personal climbing and other work-related obligations with our climbing gyms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Doing a new route on that wall came at a perfect time for me. I had moved from Barcelona to Gav\u00e0, so we were only about an hour and a half from Siurana. It worked out perfectly for me to have a project that was relatively close to my house and at the perfect difficulty for me, too. It was something that I felt like I definitely could do, so it was a very motivating set of circumstances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I would usually go [to Siurana] two times a week, sometimes three. And then I would usually supplement that with another day or so in the gym.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As everything progressed and I started getting closer on the route, every time I would go out there I would climb a lot on the route. It wasn\u2019t like I would just go boulder on it, bolt-to-bolt. I fell for quite a long time up at the top of the route, and so every week I would climb like four or five 5.15s, you know, basically doing reps on that thing. So it ended up being amazing training at the same time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On one hand, it was super crucial for me having our gym to get through this challenging phase of parenthood. But aside from that, my approach has been the same as it\u2019s always been, which is just to go climbing, and I didn\u2019t do any specific training. No dissing any of that stuff. Everyone has their own approach. But for me it always has been and still is that just going climbing is the best way to get strong.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Watch Chris Sharma\u2019s Attempts on Sleeping Lion<\/em>:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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